My Int'l Home Away From Home
Letter #83: My third time in Pari visiting Julie, Jena, and Pixie. The obsession is real.
6/4/24
How is that I find my way back to Pari again?! It is such an unbelievably special place that’s hard to put into words. Without a doubt there is a spiritual pull for me here. A sense of belonging and instant calm when I arrive.
When I pulled up in my rental car and parked along the outskirts of town, I opened the door and was greeted again by that sound I love so much. What was it? Silence? No. It was the wind gently whistling through the streets, the birds chirping, the beetles buzzing. In a place of *some* human habitation (100 people +/-), you rarely heard the noise of cars, of chatter, or of any machinery. Even more rarely of children or babies, as most the people are of a retiree age. It is one of the most peaceful, blissful sensations—the silence of all things human made so that I might detect the mild undercurrent of nature.
Julie and Pixie greeted me warmly just outside her front door as I clumsily climbed the cobblestone street up to her apartment with my ever-growing heavier luggage. Her home is a place so lovingly familiar to me now.
I needed to jump on a work call, so we had a brief catch up before she and Pixie set out for an afternoon walk. I settled into the easy chair she’d placed right in front of my bedroom window overlooking the countryside. Julie NEVER closes her windows (at least when the temperature is mild out). There is always a sense that you are living outside in the fresh air, even when you’re still inside her home.
6/15/24
Pari satisfies so many things for me. The surrounding scenery is so lush, so dense. There are so many layers of green to take in, it makes my eyes begin to blur over. I can barely focus on any one detail for too long, there’s just too much natural beauty to look at. I instead allow myself to be immersed in the warm embrace of being fully surrounded by nature.
And the architecture of this town brings tears to my eyes. The sheer aesthetic of such perfectly asymmetrical design, of nooks and crannies to discover every time you walk past—and you may pass the same spot several times a day. It leaves me feeling a little bit love drunk.
But also the food! The access to produce from local farmers, friends of Julie’s and Jena’s just down the road. It’s the wine, available at every meal for a nominal price, again, locally sourced. It’s the way I’m inspired to cook my own meals, unapologetically eating pasta sometimes twice a day.
And the people. They’re playful, they’re welcoming.
Don’t get me wrong—it’s not always perfect here. Because this place is so small, so intimate, it comes with its own challenges. There is definitely some drama that can be difficult not to get swept up in, or to get involved in (yes, even as a visitor for just a couple weeks). Such a small, magical place can lead you to feel at times like you’re living under a microscope, the experiences and misconceptions magnified. And yet, behind all that the community can be incredibly gracious of one another. Nearly everyone I’ve met here is like a master connector. They meet you and immediately introduce you to two more people. Or they hear your story and say “you must meet so and so” for X reason. And then you actually do end up meeting that person later that day. Things happen quickly because we are in such close proximity.
While being in a small village completely immersed in nature, it can be hard to find solitude in said nature with so many social invites. My days feel so full. I might say “hi” to the same person by running into them 2-5 times in one day, and a “hi” is rarely ever a “hi”, but more of a quick chit chat that typically leads to another person joining into the conversation and then inviting you to join them for X meal later. What starts as a quick chat turns into a week full of plans—whatever someone else is exploring, whether it be their own inner spirituality or a restaurant in the next town over, you’re invited.
So although the village is small, life is not. The experiences are not. You may find such pleasure in 3-4 different activities you indulge in over and over (a swim in the hot springs and river, lunch and remote work at the neighboring hotel patio, a visit to Michele’s vineyard, a walk with friends through a Tuscan trail). The people you meet become immediately affectionate with you and it makes it hard to leave them.
Diamantina was a new person I met this time around, an artisan who opened a pop-up shop in Julie’s “bottega” space just down the street. While Julie was traveling, I helped Diamantina get set up with wifi as she and her husband got settled into the space so she could sell her goods. Her textiles were INCREDIBLE. She hand weaves her own fabrics and dyes them in interesting patterns with natural dyes. So many textures, so many techniques, her shop was heaven to me. Pixie and I stopped in several times just to look at and feel the fabrics, and to check in on her with my broken Italian.
I took her up on her felting class, an art form I’d never experienced before. And while I’d like to say I excel at most crafts, this was one I did not excel at. Whereas her felted scarves were stunning works of arts, what I brought home looked like a corner of a blanket the cat chewed up a barfed back up. 🤷🏻♀️ Instead I purchased one of her incredible tye-died pieces, large enough to make into a bedspread. We’ve exchanged numbers so I can send her an image when its complete. ❤️
I had a hard time saying goodbye to Diamantina today. She was so sweet and motherly to me, even though our language barrier was high. She was humble about the beautiful art she makes, but so incredibly open to sharing it with others.
(For the most part) the people I’ve met here are so warm, so special. I’m honored to be embraced by it and welcomed back time and time again.
It’s a place that encourages me to continue exploring my own spirituality. Expanding on the questions I have, expressing them to others. It feels like a safe place to become more myself, to try on different versions of me. And at the same time enjoy all the worldly indulgences I love so much—laughing, drinking, eating, and playing with a very cute dog. The rules are fewer, the fun is easy to access. My life doesn’t have to wait to occur only on the weekends. 😍
Wow. What a wonderful welcome! I’ve never heard of this town, I’ll have to check it out! Anyplace you recommend to stay? Grazie 🙏🏻